Gunpla (and other plastic models)


#41

Kind of related to this thread, have people seen the ニパ子 nendoroid?

I’m kind of surprised that she can be a thing, but I guess if you do a lot of model kits, it’s good to get good nippers?


#42

The nendo’s kinda weird, but I’ll stand by high quality nippers all day. Got a set of God Hands for Christmas last year and they really are a substantial improvement over the $15 hobby store flush cutters I was using before. Go through plastic like it was barely there and leave a very clean cut surface. For basically everything that isn’t super prone to stress discoloration, I’ll just cut it pretty close to the part and sand it flush and it looks great. Being able to be that lazy is a nice time/potential knife accident saver.


#43

Sounds like a really good investment. I have some decent clippers but they’re not at that level. Cannot even begin to try to count the number of times I’ve cut my finger with an x-acto lol


#44

Probably gonna disassemble Makuta and my improv minions soon, so I made one last diorama of a them, my now complete set of beasts and Kopaka.

Once my Water Protector arrives I’ll be 2 Protectors away from the entire reboot collection, so that’s me fervently checking their Amazon pages for a decent price for a while.


#45

Alclad’s metallic lacquer paints are a huge pain in the ass to use, since they’re super noxious and require a nice gloss black basecoat to work off of, but man, it’s worth the trouble. Spent about 6-7 hours over the weekend getting the inner frame for my MG Hi-ν ver. Ka all airbrushed up. In ascending layers: Alclad Grey primer/microfiller, alclad gloss black lacquer, Alclad duraluminium (except the inner knee pistons, which are chrome, and a few thruster bits, which are pale gold), and Model Master Sealer for Metalizer on top to keep it all from getting jacked up. Now I just have to figure out if I’m sticking with the canon color scheme for the rest of the damn thing.


#46

Holy crap, that looks fantastic though. Sounds like a huge pain, but you are doing the lord’s work.

Don’t even care what lord, just, mmm. Damn. That’s beautiful.


#47

That looks so goooood!

I’m hoping to get buy my airbrush setup within the next few months. How do you usually paint things? Piece by piece and then assemble? Or do you put together an entire arm/leg/etc first?


#48

I’ve just been getting into the more involved half of the hobby recently (this is the second kit I’m painting), having done straight builds on a bunch of stuff before now. My tendency so far has been to de-nub, clean, and assemble the kit first, figure out if I want to go all-in on painting it, then disassemble it for painting. This isn’t without its issues, you have to be pretty damn careful getting some of these bits apart or you’ll be left with an annoying repair job while you cry over your pile of broken plastic. In the future, I definitely want to paint before building, but I suspect that my enthusiasm for the construction process will get the better of me again at some point.

To actually answer your question, I tend to put parts on sticks in chunks that can reasonably be painted from all angles - in the case of that leg, it was the upper and lower ball sections, the foot, the lower leg front, the thruster, the thruster shroud, the lower leg back, the weird channeled slidey bit just behind the knee, the upper leg minus inner piston, the inner piston, and the two halves of the calf that hold the upper leg to the lower leg. A lot of times, though, things aren’t that bad - I painted the arms on this as just the arm with hand attached (fingers spread), shoulder armor, and shoulder armor clip thingy. Mount that all on some bamboo skewers with alligator clips crimped onto the end (and occasionally some poster tac for small parts like thrusters and v-fins) by grabbing parts that won’t get seen after assembly, throw on some music, and go to town. If you want parts of the same object to be different colors, you have to spend time masking the areas with some masking tape (I quite like Tamiya’s stuff, it’s easy to work with and low-enough tackiness that it generally doesn’t peel off your paint along with it, though you can typically varnish between paint layers to reduce the chances of that happening anyhow. Metals are kind of a special case, because every layer on top of them reduces the shininess from the tiny particles in the paint that reflect light, so you get the fun of gambling with durability vs. looks.

I also tend to work in batches that let me streamline my workflow. Here, I just painted the inner frame of the thing because it was all metallics, all the time, and I wouldn’t have to switch colors mid-session much at all. I got to prime everything, wait 12 hours for it to cure, paint everything gloss black, wait another 12 hours, paint everything in duraluminium or chrome as appropriate, wait a few more hours, mask off the areas I needed to so I could get the gold on, spray the gold, then come back the next day and spray sealant on everything. When I get to painting the armor, I’m going to break it up into color blocks - I’ll paint everything that’s white at once, everything that’s purple at once, etc. That’ll let me mix large quantities of colors if needed and not have to worry about finding the appropriate color again in the future if I forget the recipe or whatever.

Airbrushing’s not particularly hard once you get your setup dialed in and figure out the right consistency for paints, though the latter is definitely a skill you have to learn and probably the third-most time-consuming part of airbrushing (#1 being masking and #2 being cleaning). As an aside, one of the nicer things about the Alclad paints I used on the frame here is that they don’t need thinning at all, which saves a whole load of time. Probably my biggest tip to people who are just getting started is to grab a bunch of cheap pipettes for transferring paint/cleaning fluid to your airbrush, along with one of those airbrush cleaning stations to spray into when you’re running pure thinner or whatever through it between colors/at the end of the day. The only other real hurdle I find I run into is troubleshooting clogs and stuck needles, but all of that just comes with practice, and is a lot easier to avoid if you’re a little compulsive about partially disassembling and rinsing out your brush at the end of a day’s work - just pull the needle and the nozzle, wipe the needle off (carefully, so as you don’t bend it) so there’s no crud stuck on it, and run some water (or solvent if there’s truly nasty buildup, just be careful with it because it can eat the rubber seals that keep the air and paint flowing correctly) through your brush for a bit, then let everything dry before you put it back together. I like using one of those little lunch item-sized reusable containers with a folded paper towel in the bottom as a place to let everything dry out without it going everywhere if I’m stupid and bump it for whatever reason.

Wow, that’s a lot of words. tl;dr - yeah, I break everything down into manageable pieces so I can paint all the visible surfaces before assembling. Also airbrushing isn’t hard, but also it can be a bunch of work? I’unno.


#49

I have an RG AEUG MK II on my desk. I built it last year, and I haven’t been able to revisit building my RG RX-78-2 yet. Or the 19 other builds in my backlog.


#50

You know what sucks about moving to Japan? There’s Gunpla everywhere and it’s really cheap but I live in a tiny apartment with zero space to put any of it.

To avoid things getting silly I’m limiting myself to only buying PG kits while I’m here so I don’t go nuts and buy more than I have space for. Straight builds only too. Makes me a little sad. But painting always ends up being a big hassle for me.


#51

Damn, all these posts makes me just wanna give kudos to all you folks. I just got into Gunpla and am enamored with the hobby. I want to get into all the intricacies of assembling before i start painting and doing custom stuff especially after seeing y’alls works. I still need to get the basics down though as i recently broke a 1/100 MG Blitz halfway into building it and it tore into my soul. So far i just have this 1/144 Strike HG that i’m pretty proud of. Also Bearguy.





#52

I only got my first model kit this year, so I didn’t have the gear to trim the rough spots off of this Guntank, but I really enjoyed making it :slight_smile:

Also d a b b i n g at the enemy would have been more effective than most of the Guntank sorties.


#53

Sorry for all the cluttered miscellany on my shelves I assure you it all has context to me haha…

My first Gundam love was the Deathscythe especially Deathsythe Hell, I love the “cape” and Duo was my man for being the only motherfucker there not trying their hardest to win the “which of us is The Angsty One” contest.

This is my first and so-far only Master Grade and the reason I made this one my first is because only the MG Hyaku-Shiki is SHINING GOLD and not just a matte gold plastic. Quattro: “I gotta go undercover so no one suspects I’m Char, Can’t use red mechs anymore, hmm I know what’ll be inconspicuous! A GIANT GOLDEN GOD of a mobile suit.” I love Char.

I have yet to watch this season of Gundam Build Fighters, but when I saw that these characters turned a Gundam into a lion-chested super robot I KNEW I had to have this. As proof of how much I love super robots just as much as real, notice the Soul of Chogokin GaoGaiGar behind my final batch of gunpla…

REPORT TO THE GOUF TROOP!!!
I LOVE the Zaku’s aesthetic, I love the color blue, Ramba Ral is my hero, so OBVIOUSLY I need every single Gouf. All the blue ones at least. Gouf and Gouf Custom will probably also be my next Master Grades.


#54

I WANT A PSYCHO GUNDAM TOO, they’re the Big Zam of Gundams.

I want to-scale Perfect Grades of the big suits/armors so that they have to be HUGE. PERFECT GRADE BIG ZAM PLEASE I’ll take out a fucking loan to buy it and waste months building it. I’ll balance a glass surface on it and use it as an coffee table in my living room Give this to be Bandai!!!


#55

First pics of the RG Unicorn!




#56

My god, it looks like it’s not a complete floppy exploding mess. Let’s hope they cracked the code!


#57

Eughh, I have a love hate relationship with my MG Unicorn for that very reason… It looks awesome, but I can’t count the number of times I’ve picked tiny white panels off the floor of my room only to have more explode off while reattaching.

The RG RX-78-2 was pretty bad too, but I think they’ve overcome that somewhat. I haven’t built an RG in a while though.


#58

I can definitely vouch for the Mk II RGs, though the cloth tubing is a little awkward to install correctly, and while I decided that the Astray Red Frame was really ugly while I built it, its mechanically relatively sound and just needs some paint more than anything.

Of course, the RG Zeta is a notoriously floppy grenade of a kit, and the Sinanju can’t support its own weight, so the series isn’t without its flaws.

Plus, I come from a miniatures background, so take my modeling preferences with an appropriately scaled grain of salt.


#59

Anyone have any suggestions for getting into gunpla? Like what’s a good first kit?


#60

i picked up gunpla as a cheap hobby which was good bc it meant that people could buy me christmas gifts easier lol! i still havent built one of the ones i got over the holiday bc ~depression~ but i love how like, good it is to make one of them and how easy the instructions are to follow, really feel good hobby even if you just like, make the things and put the stickers and dont do any of the cooler stuff

stuff from IBO is pretty good i think? picking any design you like that doesnt look too detailed or complicated is what i did, and it worked out for me?
a zaku or graze is probably like, a good place to start