They’re pretty much one of the larger FigureRise kits in terms of detail and poseability. Simple ball-and-socket or peg joint for the shoulders, semi-hollow legs so they can’t take too much force when posing, but they aren’t just gonna shatter on ya.
You’ll get a few fixed-position hands, weapons, & a base. Any fine details, you’re kind of expected to make yourself. They aren’t going to be a showstopper unless you put some serious work into them, but for the price they’re reeeeeally nice. I’ve built a few Star Wars kits that I’ve since given away, but I still have a Kamen Rider FigureRise that should give you a good idea of where the worst seam lines and certain problem areas are:
Scarf was detailed with a black wash, belt studs were detailed with a touch of red acrylic.
Depends on what you want to do paint-wise, really. Are you looking to fully recolor a kit, or do some fine detailing?
For recolors, you might want to go with spraycans. Tamiya Fine Surface Primer (white or gray depending on the final color you want) is an A-okay primer. Sands down nicely, gets into panel lines without filling them as long as you’re doing a couple of thin coats, just solid stuff all-around. Then for paints, nearly any acrylic spray paint works fine as long as you pay attention to the ingredients in it. But for simplicity’s sake, Testor’s Model Masters or Tamiya’s TS series work great and have a wide variety of colors available.
V this section also applies to miniature painting V
For detailing, I use pretty much any acrylic paint I can get my hands on. This is what I have in my bin right now, I’ll vouch for each and every one of these brands and colors.
If you’re just interesting in detailing the panel lines, which is the absolute easiest way to make your model pop, the bottom-right of the picture is what you want. Washes are your friend, always and forever. You can make your own, but both Games Workshop and Vallejo make great earthtone washes, and some colored (blue/green/red). Slosh some onto a piece, grab a bit of paper towel soaked in rubbing alcohol & wipe off the excess, and you’re done! Super old before-and-after, more recent kits are going to have a much more dramatic change:
For other detailing purposes (or a general process for painting miniatures), you’ll want a small coat of primer (I use thinned-down Vallejo surface primer, shown above). Let that dry for about 30 minutes and start applying your base color in thin coats. You’ll want your paint to be the consistency of milk. It’ll take a while to build up layers, but you get a much more even final coat, and better/more dramatic color transitions. Work up to the lightest accent color and do any highlighting like edges or paint scuffs, and drybrushing here. Finally, you’ll want some sort of varnish, or your paint is going to start peeling and chipping. Vallejo’s matte/gloss varnishes are awesome brush-ons, but Testor’s Dullcote is going to be much faster, less stressful, and the stuff is tough as nails if you apply it properly. Let that cure for a day or so, depending on the size of the piece.
All of the yellow facial areas and black bits on this God Gundam except for the front of the ankle pieces were painted and then given a brush-on matte varnish.
Aaaaannnd this li’l Amuro from an ancient RX-78 Master Grade was the cause of many hours of eye strain, but i’m still super satisfied with how it turned out.