Miniatures Painting and Gaming Discussion and Picture thread! (Image Intensive)


#41

I have Vallejo’s black, white and grey primers and I wouldn’t recommend using them to a new painter, especially if you’re going to be doing more than a few models for a tabletop game. That said, being streaky is fine since thats just the white pigment in your primer. As long as you covered the surface with primer and you washed the model well before painting it should be fine. You’re gonna paint over it anyway.

My recommendation for spray primer is Krylon ColorMaster Paint + Primer. Just make sure to get matte, not satin or gloss.

Tamiya sprays are pretty good but I’ve only found them at specialty model train / scale model shops or Amazon.

Citadel sprays are actually pretty good but a bit absurdly priced. Army Painter sprays have been pretty hit or miss for me.


#42

The Vallejo Urethane Primer that comes in the bigger bottles (not the standard paint-sized dropper bottles, which are literally paints named " primer" that color-match the various primers) is primarily intended for use with an airbrush, but works just fine brushed on. It doesn’t particularly need to be thinned because it’s a urethane paint that basically conforms to details as it dries. It also may not be worth worrying about if it’s streaky or covers fully, as long as there’s a layer of it on the model.

The main purpose of priming is to give your paints something a with a bit more “tooth” than bare plastic to stick to, and even a streaky or thin layer of primer will do that. On the other hand, if you’re painting with very translucent paints, you’re going to want to have an even coat of primer (or gradient of primer if that’s what you’re going for, but that’s a whole other can of worms) underneath so that the tones in your paint aren’t overly affected by the differences in brightness in your primer.

As for rattlecan primer recommendations, I swear by Duplicolor sandable auto primer, which comes in white, black, grey, and rust red. It goes on pretty thin, but a few light coats do a great job of creating a nice surface to paint on. It’s also the stuff that Privateer Press rebadges and doubles the price on for their house brand primer. That said, availability of any aerosol product is going to vary based on where you are in the world, though the fact that you’re being charged $30 for GW White tells me that you’re probably in AU/NZ. That being the case, the recommendation I’ve seen is to hit Bunnings for a can of White Knight Squirts matte (or flat, whichever they call it) in the color you prefer.


#43

Looks like I had it set to the wrong region. Citadel is “only” $20.

When you say coats,do you mean passes of the can or do you put on multiple layers of primer?


#44

Passes of the can. I basically use the process shown in this Massive Voodoo video, though you can ignore the second half where he gets fancy with a second color if you don’t want to complicate matters.

edit: also, mounting your minis on a handle so you can spray them from all angles without having to hold them by the base or whatever is super key, it helps a lot. I use pill bottles about half-full of quarters so they’re not quite so top-heavy and less likely to tip over if I bump the desk, but other folks use old paint pots, just chunks of wood or dowels, spraycan lids, etc.


#45

Citadel primer, insofar as I have heard it, is basically Krylon with a different label slapped on and a significant price markup. You can find cheaper primers like Army Painter, Vallejo, that one brand with the Munchkins on it–but honestly I think your cheapest bet would be to buy Krylon from a craft supply store like Michael’s. That said, if the extra few dollars over a bulk craft/painting store is worth it to you, your FLGS (Friendly Local Gaming Store) would appreciate the business, especially if you’re a patron on gaming nights!


#46

Hey Guys! I finished up my first unit of Kharadron Overlords, an Arkanaut Company. These guys are really fun to paint, and their lore is pretty cool too!


#47

I haven’t painted anything yet, but the sky dwarves lured me back into Warhammer after a 15 year absence. I have an Arkanaut Admiral and a unit of Thunderers so far, assembled but waiting for me to settle on a color scheme. I love seeing all of the painted examples of them in this thread - lots of inspiration!


#48

I was really into the Barak-Zilfin color scheme for them, shown in this months White Dwarf and their book. Really bright copper/bronze equipment and blue clothing, I thought it looked really cool.


#49

I am still waiting on the army book - my FLGS sold through it super-fast. That sounds like where I’m leaning, though - reminds me of Cygnar from Warmachine, and I am very into that aesthetic.


#50

Finally got some primer! Krylon Colormaster did the trick My Tyranid warriors are now nice and white. On to step two, sculpt some green stuff into V-fins. This is my first time using green stuff. What kind of tools do you use to sculpt it? For now, I just got a rough shape and I’m going to Xacto knife it down when it dries. I have a small metal tool, but even trying to keep the green stuff and tool wet, it sticks a lot.


#51

For using the stuff you’ve got, my suggestion is to lubricate your tools with a thin layer of vaseline or invest in some silicone clay shapers if you’re more serious about sculpting, they’re basically shapes on the end of sticks in a material that doesn’t really stick to anything.

In the future, well, the dark secret of green stuff is that it’s a huge pain in the ass to work with. I essentially gave up and switched to a variety of more user-friendly epoxy putties like ProCreate, Apoxie Sculpt and Milliput (grey/yellow, it’s got a bunch of variety) after getting fed up with how bad green stuff is. ProCreate is a bit stiffer than green stuff, holds edges and points better, and is easy enough to work with wet tools. Apoxie Sculpt and Milliput are a little looser, but are much better for seam filling because you can use water to thin them out into a paste. All three are much easier to sand/file down down than green stuff.


#52

Thanks. It’s my fault for trying to make my nids look more like RX-78 instead of just going Tau. I’ll look into the other epoxy types.


#53

Welp, that turned out about as well as I expected.
http://imgur.com/JJxQrju

Just two Gundams. Hanging out. Totally normal.


#54

Using Tyranid instead of Tau is unorthodox, but I’m very interested in seeing what you do with your Mobile Carapace warriors.


#55

I’m just happy that making my Zaku command antennae for my Char Nid will be easier.


#56

If you have any resin kits you could just clip off a flat, triangular piece of the extra sprue flash and file it down to fit. It’s what I’m planning to do for my eventual second unit of Reciprocators.


#57

Some of the most fun I’ve had in my professional life was writing this article, which seems like it might be of interest to some folks here.

I’m not much of a figurine dude so I may have be entirely wrong with the pitch, but the client gets what the client wants! In this case what the client wants is expertly produced artwork with high quality photos. But I’ve seen beginner work which is quite serviceable, especially for an RPG.

http://upwards.the3doodler.com/fan-creations-fabricating-figurines/


#58

Been pretty busy just putting things together. Kind of a lot all at once, but I wanted to make sure I got my assembly line cleared now so I wasn’t burned out by the time the new Scyrah models hit in June.

I’ll pick up the Ironclad eventually, just not right away. My wallet and I both need some downtime from model building.


#59

I finally finished up my 4 Rubric Marines for my Chaos Space Marine SW:A team. Next up are the 4 Tzaangor “cultists”, then start on the rest of an army of these dudes


#60

They are 2 legit 2 quite man. Love the shoulder markings, excellent detail.